Every question we get asked on driveways, answered here.

Most two-car garages in the Raleigh area run $2,400–$3,800 for a full-flake system with a polyaspartic topcoat. The spread depends on the condition of your concrete — cracks, previous coatings that need grinding off, and moisture issues add prep time. Metallic floors start around $3,900 because the pour is slower and the material costs more. We give exact, line-item quotes after seeing the slab, and the number we quote is the number you pay.

Yes. Most customers who finance choose 12-month same-as-cash; longer fixed-rate terms up to 60 months are available. Applying takes about five minutes online, doesn't affect your credit score to check your rate, and approval usually comes back the same day. Details are on our financing page.

Not with proper prep and the right topcoat. Hot-tire pickup happens when a coating sits on top of concrete instead of bonding into it — usually from acid etching or skipping prep entirely. We diamond-grind every slab to open the pores, then use a polyaspartic topcoat that stays stable well past tire temperatures. It's the single most common failure we're called to fix on floors other companies installed, and it's why our warranty specifically covers adhesion.

A properly prepped residential floor with a polyaspartic topcoat should last 15–20 years with normal use, which is why we're comfortable putting a 15-year adhesion warranty behind it. The finish will show fine scratch swirl in heavy-traffic lanes over many years — a maintenance recoat of just the topcoat refreshes it without redoing the floor.

A smooth, high-gloss coating can be, which is why texture is a design decision we make together. Full-flake floors have natural texture from the flake itself. For smooth metallic or solid-color floors, we add a clear anti-slip aggregate to the topcoat — you can't see it, but you can feel it underfoot. For pool decks and exterior concrete we spec a heavier grit.

A dust mop or leaf blower for grit, and occasional mopping with water or a squirt of dish soap. No wax, no polish, no harsh degreasers needed — road salt, oil, brake fluid, and most chemicals wipe off without staining. Avoid dragging unprotected steel (car jack feet, for example); use a scrap of plywood under point loads.

A standard garage is one day on site. Polyaspartic cures fast: you can walk on the floor the same evening and park on it in 24–48 hours depending on humidity. Traditional epoxy-only systems need 3–5 days before vehicle traffic, which is one reason we use polyaspartic topcoats on nearly every residential job.

We diamond-grind, every time. Acid etching is cheaper and faster for the installer, but it leaves laitance and contamination on the surface, and coatings over etched concrete are the ones that peel. Grinding removes the weak top layer, opens the pores, and profiles the slab to CSP-2/3 — the profile coating manufacturers actually require for their warranties to hold.

Yes — that's most floors we do. Cracks get chased out with a diamond blade and filled with a rigid polyurea that cures in minutes and sands flush. Pits and spalls get patched the same way. Hairline cracks may telegraph a faint line through a solid-color floor over time, which is one reason flake and metallic systems are popular: the pattern hides everything. If your slab has structural movement or active water intrusion, we'll tell you honestly before taking the job.

Yes — the floor needs to be completely clear, including shelving that sits on the slab. Wall-mounted storage can stay. Most customers stage everything in the driveway under a tarp for the day; because polyaspartic cures overnight, you can move everything back in about 24 hours. If you need help moving heavy items, tell us when you book and we'll plan for it.

Epoxy is a thick, self-leveling resin that's excellent as a base coat — it builds thickness and bonds hard to prepped concrete. Polyaspartic is a faster-curing, UV-stable coating that's better as a topcoat: it won't yellow in sunlight, handles NC temperature swings, and cures in hours instead of days. Our standard system uses both — epoxy or polyaspartic base for bond strength, polyaspartic top for durability. Companies that pitch "100% polyaspartic" or "100% epoxy" are usually selling what they stock, not what's best for the slab.

It matters more here than almost anywhere. Concrete slabs in the Triangle often read high on moisture, especially in basements and homes without vapor barriers. Coating over a wet slab causes bubbling and delamination months later. We take calcium-chloride or RH readings on every slab before quoting, and when moisture is elevated we install an epoxy moisture-vapor barrier as the base coat. It costs more upfront and it's the difference between a floor that lasts 15 years and one that fails in two.